W Coffee Talk Beyond the legacy: Christian Selmoni - Style and Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin

Born to a Swiss family of watchmakers in the Vallée de Joux, one of the historical birthplaces of watchmaking, Christian Selmoni joined Vacheron Constantin in 1990. He has held various positions over the course of more than three decades, left profound impressions on the brand that celebrates its 270th anniversary this year

Christian was appointed Artistic Director at Vacheron Constantin in 2010, with responsibilities including the long-term definition of products and future “product” tendencies for the Maison; its creative aspects as well as the development and consolidation of the Métiers d’Art workshops (artistic crafts such as enamel, engraving, gem-setting and guillochage), together with Les Cabinotiers workshop which includes design and development of made-to-order timepieces.

Christian Selmoni - Style and Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin.

Seven years later, Christian was appointed Style and Heritage Director, whose missions are to enrich and develop the Maison’s heritage, as well as to extract designs and design elements from the past to nurture Vacheron Constantin’s present and future creations. He has spent more than half of his life observing the industry and the brand, accumulating knowledge and experience, like a living encyclopedia.

What are your thoughts on the response from watch enthusiasts to the comeback of the iconic timepieces, including the recently introduced Steel version of the Historiques 222 launched in early 2025? 

In 2022, we launched a re-edition of the 222 jumbo timepiece, an iconic sport-elegant Vacheron Constantin model originating from 1977. We took the decision to introduce it in our Historiques collection, and the yellow gold version was chosen, as it was originally the most exclusive one, while at the same time the choice of yellow gold was a kind of reminiscence from this flamboyant decade. Following the success of the Historiques 222 in yellow gold, the steel version – arguably the most sought-after by collectors – was highly expected. As Vacheron Constantin is celebrating its 270th anniversary this year, we decided to enter this year of celebration with launch the Historiques 222 in steel last January. 

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 in Steel

As a Heritage and Style Director, what aesthetics will appeal to Gen Z as well as Gen Alpha? In your observation, do past watch heritages appeal to this younger clientele? 

Since quite a few years, vintage is a major trend in watchmaking: young generations appreciate such watches for their authenticity, their aesthetics and also the patina of time which is often visible on vintage watches. At the end of the day, I think that authenticity remains the key word: the values of Vacheron Constantin designs, such as elegance, sophistication, refinement and respect for the traditions resonate with their own values. Finally, they are particularly interested in our craftsmanship – the fact that our watches encapsulate hand-made finishings and the greatest care into all details. 

How can new watch designs carve out a distinctive style and break free from the aura of iconic predecessors? 

Vacheron Constantin owns a history of 270 years of non-stop activity and mastery of all aspects of fine watchmaking. Considering this strong legacy, we are consistently presenting, year after year, timepieces which pay tribute to our heritage and living traditions, while at the same time being – from the design and technical aspects – totally relevant in today’s world. Creativity and innovation are at the heart of our manufacture, nevertheless always expressed in our timeless classic and sophisticated way. 

Les Cabinotiers The Berkley Grand Complication

How have the tastes of Asian customers evolved in recent years? In your view, what styles or heritage-inspired timepieces will attract Asian collectors in the future? 

Asia has been since centuries a continent which showed a great interest – if not passion – for watchmaking. Our Maison is expressing its watchmaking art through several collections, from classic to ladies’ watches, from métiers d’art to grand complications… there are multiple choices for our clients to embark into our watchmaking journey. Since more than a decade now, there has been a great interest for sport-elegant watches, however classic, elegant watches still remain very attractive to our Asian clientele, though collections such as Patrimony, Traditionnelle and of course Historiques!

Vacheron Constantin Minute Repeater Ref. 4261 ‘Les Collectionneurs’

Today's mechanical watches are more about emotional appeal than practical timekeeping. What is your take on this perspective? 

During centuries, the primary function of a timepiece was to tell the time in the most accurate way. The invention of quartz movements has then been a game changer, thanks to their precision and lower cost of manufacturing. Prestige Maisons such as Vacheron Constantin remained faithful to mechanical watches through these difficult times. At the end of the 1980’s, traditional watchmaking came back under the spotlight, and mechanical watches became – in a way – beautiful objects manufactured by skilled artisans… and still measuring time with accuracy and precision. This come-back paved the way for the development of Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking complications, probably the most spectacular aspect of our watchmaking art, together with decorative crafts such as enameling, engraving, guilloche and gem-setting. 

Vacheron Constantin American 1921

As the Heritage & Style Director of Vacheron Constantin, what have been the most rewarding and challenging aspects of preserving the brand’s heritage while fostering innovation in watch design? 

Despite all difficulties encountered through 270 years of activity, Vacheron Constantin has been able to preserve, maintain and develop its savoir-faire and its watchmaking art. This achievement made possible landmark creations such as last year’s Berkley Grande Complication, the most complicated watch ever made in history with no less than 63 watchmaking complications. Such records obviously create emulation and drive creation and innovation for the future. 

Vacheron Constantin “Prestige de la France” - a model from 1972, with its unique shape, asymmetrical and androgynous style

As Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 270th anniversary this year, could you share your three favorite Vacheron Constantin timepieces?  Why are they special to you? 

I absolutely love early wristwatches from the beginning of the century, incredibly bold and creative. The American 1921 is an excellent example of this era. In addition, I will mention the reference 4261 from the 1940’s, a real technical achievement: it is an ultra-thin minute-repeater – one of the most difficult complications to achieve – with a movement of only 3.20mm, housed in a 36mm case with “teardrop” lugs and a beautiful, classic dial. Finally, I would like to mention the “Prestige de la France” model from 1972, with its unique shape, asymmetrical and cambered, and its androgynous style, a testimony of this decade – the 1970’s – when breaking the codes was the norm!

Thanks for your inspiring stories!